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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 






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HANSEN'S 

SEAMLESS lj ARTISTIC 



FROCK COAT SYSTEM 



ME Til OD 



WHICH IS 



CLEAR, SIMPLE AND COMPLETE 



AM) 



ITS 'NVOLVING IDEAS HAVE NEVER BEEN 
'^^^ HEARD OR THOUGHT OF BEFORE. 



A WORK WHICH HAS BEEN BY CAREFUL STUDY AND PRACTICE 

SUCCESSFUL. 



ELABORATED 




By H. J. HANSEN 



GOSHEN, IND. 



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Entered According to Act of ConctRess in the Year 1889, by 

H. J. HANSEN, 
In the Ofi-^ice of the Librarian of Congresp at Washington. D. C. 



^/^ /^- ' ->^l 



Valuable Points 



NECESSARY TO STUDY IN ORDER TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL CUTTER 

BY HANSEN'S SEAMLESS AND ARTISTIC 

FROCK COAT SYSTEM 



For Noi-iiial Foi-n take out ^ iufh (V), one-oighth Breast distance 
from 2. Take out ^ incli (V) under the arm running up to Z. For 
extreme hollow Waist, say if you measure a form 3(5 Breast and od 
Waist, which is 2 iiudies out of proixirtiou. in a case of tiiis kind, 
take out good ^ iiudi more at trout (V), the sauH> amount at (V) run- 
iiing up to Z, and at natural Waist at D. 

For Corpulent Form (see Diag. "2) take out hut one (V) running up 
to Z, take out ', inch instead of s, and ', mv\\ at natural Waist instead 
of Q. Then apply half the waist measure and 'J inches, same as Nornuil, 
and make a dot; run a line through that point as at H H to M M. 
Now come l)a(d< one in(di to li i\ an<l I'un a line from P 1* through II R 
to Y Y. This takes away the surplus (doth. whi(di a great many cut- 
ters have trouble with in getting their coats too long in front for cor- 
pulent forms. Be sure and take Breast, Waist and I'pper Shoulder 
measures correct, as you have to chance to alter your coat around the 
arm. Be careful and not get the scye too large, rather a little chtse, 
until after your coat is tried on. If yon think that )oui'form recpiii'es 
a smaller scye than Normal, full up at \' and then if necessary to have 
it larger, cut out after trying on, as this will not interfere with any 



6 

other point as long as your Breast measure has been taken accurately. 
Take the measures over the Vest. Take Breast, Waist and Seat meas- 
ures just as it is, not too close or too loose ; take Uj^per Shoulder meas- 
ure quite snug; take Breast measure over the Blade, not under, and 
let your tape measure meet in front and not behind. 

To obtain the correct seat measure, have your customer take every- 
tiiiug out of his pockets, then let him put his feet together; now take 
your seat measure the same way as Breast measure. 

Would advise to use any kind of a short measure instrument with 
which you can obtain the correct sliort measures necessary; pla -e it 
under the arm quite snug, then take strap, height of shoulder and 
l)lade. To get the height of shoulder, measure down a certain distance, 
say fi inches, from top to center of baek, and allow liinch for make up. 

Do not put in more than thi-ee-ply wadding in si oulders, one ply 
over half way the Breast and around the scye. If more wadding is de- 
sired, add on shoulder at M and cut top sleeve a trifle higher. Draw 
in ^ incli from N N to U U. For long neck or low shoulder, get point 
first l)y dividing between A and B, and 1 and (> as well; then add. 
say 5 to A inch up from A and square line that much higher from 4. 

Df) not put a plait in the linings over the (V) but cut it out and 
treat it the same as the outside. A plait should be put in at the back 
seam. 



TABLE OF PROPORTION. 



BREAST. 


UPPER 
SHOULDER. 


DEPTH OF 
SCYE. 


STRAP. 


HETGHT OF 
SHOULDER. 


BLADE. 


30 


211 


7A 


10 


13 


% 


81 


22A 


7| 


lOi 


18i 


% 


82 


0;» 1 


S 


m 


131 


til 


88 


24 


Hi 


101 


131 


loi 


84 


241 _ 


HA 


11 


14 


10.1 


8") 


2r)A 


SI 


Hi 


Ui 


101 


8fi 


2C.- 


<) 


llA 


14A 


11 


87 


27 


'•»i 


111 


141 


\\l 


8S - 


271 


Ml 


12 


ir. 


lis 


8'.) 


2S:V 


l)f 


121 


151 


12 


40 


2'.»i 


10 


12A 


\U 


101 

'-'1 


41 


29^ 


loi 


121 


15X 


12A 


4 'J 


80 


101 


121 


1() 


12J 


48 


80^ 


lOa 


12| 


l<»:4 


l^n 


. 44 


80« 


lOA 


18 


IGl 


18A 


45 


81i 


10& 


131 


17 


131 


4(j 


8U 


lOf 


13i 


m 


14i 



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DIAGRAM 1. 



U.l 



»7^L)ra^|f for Dorroa^l f^orrotf' 
By Hansen's SeamlBss and jlrtistic Frock Coat System, Wittioafc Plaits. 



MEASURES USED. 

36 Breast, 32 Waist, 36 Seat. 
26^ Shoulder, 9 Depth of Scye. 
16i Natural Waist. 
ISi Full length Waist. 
32 Full length of Coat. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square line A 4 and A. K. A to D is Natural Waist. A to K is 
full length Waist. A to B is one-third Shoulder and J inch. C is half 
way between A and B. I is half way between A and C. 6 is i-inch 
from I. B to P P is one-half Breast and J inch. P P to B B is one- 
fourth Breast. B B to V is one-eighth Breast. V to S S is 1| inch in 
all cases. Sweep from P P to V V; use B as a pivot. Square up from 
B B and V. S S to is strap measure Hi inches, and 1 inch added 
for make up, which makes 12^ inches. to L is one-sixth Breast. 
L to N is one-sixth Breast. N to 8 is ■§ inch. Square out from 8. A 
to 4 is one-sixth Breast. 4 to T is f inch. C to L L is one-third Breast. 
L L to C C is one-twelfth Breast. C C to W is A inch. W to 9 is 1 
inch. 9 to (1 is f inch. Shape back part from T to G. L to A A is 
same distance as from T to G, less | inch. A A to M is | inch. L to 
E E is one inch. Shape scye from G to S S and from M to S S. N N 
to M is 2^ inches. U U is one-fourth Breast from W. K to Y is one- 
eighth Breast. Sweep from Y to T Y ; use E E as a pivot. D to H H 
is I Waist and 2 inches. Draw line from P P through H H to Y Y. 
From Y Y to front is | inch. H H to W W is If inches. P P to T T 
is U inch for stitched edge. Now shape front. K to 7 is 1^ inch in 
all cases. Draw^ line from 7 to Y Y. 7 to E is one-third Breast. E 
to 2 is I inch. Draw line from U U through Z to E. Shape (V) to 2. 
2 is J inch up from line 7-Y Y, which is to be stretched to meet at 
bottom. Stretch a trifle at natural Waist at D and prss over half way 
between K and 2. J inch in from K to 5 is 8J inch. 5 to U is 11^ 
inches. Draw line from J inch in at K through U to 0, which is full 
length of Coat. Take out ^ inch at Y Y. From top of skirt to S is 
same distance as from K to 0. Now shape front of Skirt. Round the 
skirt i inch from K to 0, and press it in to straight line. 



10 




FIG. 1. 



11 



^T). B. Froclct^ 



Fig. 1 on opposite page is showing the back of D. W. Frock, liy 
Hansen's Seamless and Artistic Frock Coat System, without plaits. 

The trousers are also without a side seam ])} our method, which 
we had pulilished for the benefit of the trade in two April numliers, 
1889, of the American Fashion Review and Tailor's Art Journal, and 
the American Tailor and Cutter, appearing undei- the heading of "Fine 
Trade Design," by the Jno. J. Mitchell Co.. puldishers, New York. 






H.II 




DIAGRAM 2. 



13 

*73t)rs^ff [or Corpijlerkr r^orrrvt^ 

By Hansen's SeamlEss and pctlsfcic Frock Coafc System, WithKfe Plaits, 



MEASURES USED. 

44 Breast, 44 Waist, 44 Seat. 
30f Shoulder, 10| Depth of Scye. 
17i Natural Waist. 
19i Full length Waist. 
34A Full length of Coat. 

TO DKAFT. 

Square line A 4 and A K. A to D is natural Waist. A to iv is 
full length Waist. A to B is one-third Shoulder and ^ incli. C is half 
way between A and B. 1 is half way between A and ('. (i is one-half 
inch from 1. B to P P is one-half Breast and ^ inch. P I' to B B is 
one- fourth Breast, i inch. B B to V is one-eighth Breast. V to S S is 
U inch in all cases. Sweep from P P to V V;,use B as a pivot. Square 
up from B B and at V. Strap measure is A inch back of S S up to 0, 
which is 13 inches, and 1 inch added for make-up, which makes 14 
inches. to L is one-sixth Breast. L to N is one-sixth Breast. N 
to 8 is I inch. Square out from 8. A to 4 is one-sixth Breast. 4 toT 
is I inch. C to L L is one-third Breast. L L to C C is one-twelfth 
Breast. C C to W is f in -h. W to 9 is 1 inch. 9 to G is f inch. Shape 
back j)art from T to G. L to A A is same distance as from T to (i, less 
§ inch. A A to M is § inch. L to E E is A inch. Shape scye from (i 
to S S and from M to S S. N to M is 2* inches. U U is one-fourth 
Breast from W. K to Y is one-eighth Breast. Sweep from Y to MM; 
use E E as a pivot. D to H H is A Waist and 2 inches. Draw I'ne 
from V V through H H to M M. H H to R R is 1 inch. P P to T T is 
1| inch for stitched edge. Draw line from P P through R R to Y Y. 
Now shape front. Y to 7 is 11 inch in all cases for this style of coat. 
Draw line from 7 to M M. D to E is one-third Breast. E to 2 is | 
inch. Draw line from U U through Z to E. Shape (V) to 2. 2 is ^ 
inch up from 7-Y Y-M M, which is to be stretched to meet at bottom. 
Stretch a trifle at natural Waist at D, and press over half way between 
K and 2. Y to K is 3j inches. K to U is llA inches. Draw line from 
Y through U to 0, which is full length of coat. Take out one-half 
inch at Y Y. From top of skirt to S is same distance as from Y to 0. 
Round the skirt one-half inch from Y to and press it in to a straight 
line. 




FIG. 2. 



15 



»7^(_^ufs^wa\Y p took; (^oa^ft^ 



P^ig. 2 on opposite page is showing the back of a Cutaway Frock 
Coat by Hansen's Seamless and Artistic Frock Coat System. The 
trousers are the same as Fig. 1. 



16 



o.o. 




DIAGRAM 3. 



^Dra^ff- for D. B. Froc^t^ 
By Hansen's SeamlBss and prtistic Frock Coat System, Without Plaits. 



MEASURES USED. 

H(> Breast, 32 Waist, 8(5 .Seat. 
2(;| Shoulder, 9 Depth of Scye. 
1(*)| Natural Waist. 
IS^L Full length Waist. 

TO nUAFT. 

Square Hue A 4 aud A. K. A to I) is Natural Waist. A to K is 
full length Waist. A to H is one-third Shoulder and \ inch. (' is half 
way between A and B. 1 is half way between A and C (i is A-inch 
from I. B to P P is one-half Breast and ^ inch. P P to B B is one- 
fourth Breast. B B to V is oue-eighth Breast. V to S S is lA inch in 
all cases. Sweep 4 iiicdi from P P to V V; use B as a pi\dt. S(|uare 
up from B B and V. S S to is strap measure llAinclies, and 1 inch 
added for make up. which makes 12A inches. O O to L is one-sixth 
Breast. L to S is one-sixth Breast. S(piare out from S. A to 4 is 
one-sixth Breast. 4 to T is | inch. C to L L is one-third Breast. L L 
to C is one-twelfth Breast. C C to W is A inch. W to 9 is 1 inch. 
9 to (t is 3 inch. Shape hack part from T to G. L to A A is same 
distan<'e a^ from T to CI, less jj inch. A A to M is g in(di. L to K E 
is one in(di. Shape scye from G to S S and from M to S S. N N to 
M is 2i incdies. U U is one-fourth Breast from W. K to Y is one- 
eighth Breast. Sweep from Y to S; use E E as a pivot, i) to H H is 
A Wai.st and 2 inches. Draw line A inch from PP through A in(di 
from H H to S. K to 7 is lA hwh in all case.s. Draw line from 7 
to S. Shorten fore part h inch at S, for D. B. Frock f)nly. 7 to E is 
one-third Breast. E to 2 is finch. Draw line from U U through Z 
to E. Shape (V) to 2. 2 is ^ inch up from line 7-S, whi(di is to he 
stret(died to meet at bottom. Stretch a trifle at natural Waist at D 
and press over half way between K and 2. Lapell is 2h inches atcenter, 
'1\ in(dies at bottom, and 2 incdies at to}). 



IN 




DIAGRAM 4. 



19 



^&AA for p. 0. Frool^ Qo^f^i^ 
By Hansen's Seamless and Artistic Frock Coat System, Without I'laits. 

TO DRAFT. 

iS(|uare line A 1> and A 1>. A to K is width of hottoin of hody 
coat, and a<]d from 1 to lA inch tor fullness. K to C is l^ inch in all 
cases. V to K is .\ inch. I)ra\v line from .V to ('. Shape top of skirt 
to E. K to DisM} iiudies. Sipiare down fr(nn D to (), which is 1 1 .1 
inches. Draw lim/ from E thronga U to N. E to N is same distance 
as from A to B. 

To get the coi'rect width of skirt: First nn'asure bottom of Body 
(Joat; say for o2 waist it measures 17i inches with the seams, ami 
after it is sewed up it will nu^asure 1.^ inch less, whi(di makes Hi imdies, 
then ap[ily the H) iu<dies on line A D and ad(t from I to 1.^ in(di foi' 
fullness, according to goods, and make a ilot. Now ilraft ycuir skirt. 



'20 




DIAGRAM .'). 



21 



^T)ra^\\ for Dress Coa^l-tV* 
By Hansen's SeamlBss and flrtisti: Frock Coat System, Without Plaits, 

MEASURE.S USED. 

36 Breast, 32 Waist, 3fi Seat. 
26i Shoulder, lOf Depth of Scye. 
16i Natural Waist. 
18i Full length Waist. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square line A 4 and A K. A to D is natural Waist. A to K is 
full length Waist. A to B is one-third Shoulder and j inch. (' is half 
way hetween A and I>. ! is half way between V and A. ('» is A incdi 
from I. B to P P is one-liaif Breast and { inch. P P to B B is one- 
fourth Breast. B B to V is one-eighth Breast. V to S S is U im-hes 
in all cases. Sweep \ mrh from P P to V V; use B as a pivot. S(piare 
up from B B and V. S S to () () is strap measure 11 A in(dit\s. and one 
inch added for make-up, whicdi makes 12A inches. to L is one- 
sixth Bi-east. Ij to S i,s one-si\tii Breast. S(inare out fi'oni S. A to 4 
is one-sixth Breasf. 4 to T is ■] imdi. (' to L L is oi.c-tliird i5reast. 
L L to C C is one-twelfth Ihvast. C (' to W is -A imdi. W to *.» is 1 
inch. 1) to ti is i^ incdi. Sliai)e l>a(d\ iiart from 4' to (i. L to A A is 
.same di.stance as fi-om 4' to (i, less -^ inch. L to E E is one in(4i. A A 
to M is g in(4i. L to 1^ 1"^ is one imdi. Sluqie Scye from (i to S S, and 
from M to S S. N N to M is 2A in(di. V V is one-foui-tli P>reast from 
W. K to V is one-eightli Bi'east. Sweep from Y to N; use K E as a 
pivot. I>toH H is om'-lialf Waist and 2 incdies. |)i-avv line^ j uu-h 
from P P through [ iu(4i from li II to N. S is 1^ iu(4i from N. K to 
7 is U inch in all cases. Hi-avv line from 7 to N. 7 to E is one-third 
Brea.st. E to 2 is 'l uu-h. Draw line from V U through / to E. Shape 
(V) to 2. 2 is 4 in(di u]i fi'(Mn line 7. S and N, whiidi is to lie stretched 
to meet at liottom. Strctidi m trifle at natural Waist at I) and [)ress 
over half way between K and 2. 4'he Ea^iell is 2A in dies at center, lA 
inch at bottom, 2 incdies at to}), and is U inch longer than from V V 
to S after the (V) is sewed up and the Breast work in. 



22 




l)I.\(iltAM C. 



23 



'^]^K:irf for Jjress (Joa^fl:^ 
By Hansen's Seamless and Artistic Frock Coat System. Witliont I'laits. 



vS([iiare line A Z and A L. A to N is width of liody coat. N to K 
is 1\ inch. K to I is one-lialf inch. N to L is oj incli. Scpiare line 
from L to T. which is lU incdies. Draw lino from I througli T to H. 
H to F is one-third Bl-east and 1-12. A to J] is l.t in(di. 1> to J.' is A 
in(di. R to P) is 1 .^ inch. R to t) is one-fourth Hreast. Draw line 
from D to F. Now Shape front, and to]) of skirt from 15 to I. 



24 




Z<' 



<>15 




DIAGRAM 7. 



25 



r^ Sleeve t^ 
Por Ha^rwserv's Sea^rf%less a^n'^ Art ist'c Hrock Coa^f. 



TO DRAFT. 

Sciuare line A C and A T. A to T is one-1 alt": that is, oue-lialf by 
division of Scye measure, not according to Breast measure. Suppose 
you cut a coat for a form 44 Breast, half of that would l)e 2'2: now 
your scye is apt to measure not more than U), .so it is one-half and one- 
sixth l)y division of scye measure. Square down from T to R. T to 

is one-sixth and three-fourths inch. to S is A inch. Square line 
across from S. T to P is one-sixth. P to H is U inch. Shape uuder- 
sleeve from to N, which is width of under scye from notch to notch 
and A inch. Shape top-sleeve from through H to F; which is width 
of top scye, and allow from 1 to U inch for fullness. A B to D is 
length of sleeve. Square line across from C to R. R to I is lA inch. 

1 to D is 6i inch. Take out f inch at Z or loo fancy. 

TO MEASURE THE SCYE. 

Whei; you make a l)ody draft, say 3(i Breast, and according to the 
proportion measurement, you will find the width of under scye from 
front notch, which is | inch up from V to back part not :h, which is f 
incdi lielow W 7A inches. Add to the 7A inch | inch, which makes the 
width of under scye 8;^ inches. Then apply the S^ from back notch, 
measure up to G, and from front notch to M. Now you will find j our 
scye measure IS inches. 



26 



♦7^ rvei-Tva^rfcs fo Cuffers^ 



As some cutters think, a system should work like a machine and 
turn out a perfect fitting coat every time, whether the measures have 
been taken correctly or not. A method of that kind has not yet been 
invented, and in our opinion never will be; this would be just as un- 
reasonable as to expect all men to be the same age, same size, and 
same weight. If such were the case then it might be possible that 
one measure taken and applied to the system would produce a perfect 
fitting garment. 

Care should lie taken to ol)tain the correct breast and shoulder 
measures, which are two very important measures, and in some cases 
are hard to take. Now suppose you have lieen getting the breast 
measure one size too large, which is a mistake the best cutter will 
make once in a great while, but if a man should get the breast meas- 
ure either too small or too large more than one size, we would con- 
sider him a poor or careless cutter. 

If your breast measure has been taken too large, what will be the 
result? You will either have too much cloth in front or around the 
arm, or if taken too much out at waist, it will throw up surplus cloth 
around the scye. If you have too much cloth around the scye, don't 
think that you will have to cut through your coat from Z on, in order 
to get away with the surplus, as it will not do; come back one-half 
inch at L and the same amount at M, this will take away the loose 
cloth around the scye. 

If your coat is too small, leave it out in front, the same at L, and 
take off at M and cut out your scye the same amount. Now if you 
have been getting your shoulder measure too long and your coat is too 
deep in scye, take off say j or A inch from A to T and from T to G, 
and lower your back sleeve notch the same amount. 

An outlet should lie left on top of liack, on shoulder from M to N, 
in front of L. from lA inch below N N and in front, say | inch. It is 
necessary for every cutter who wants to be a successful cutter, to have 
patience with cranks, good judgment, correct measures, and use Han- 
sen's Seamless and Artistic Frock Coat System. 












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